A Community and Forum For Aquaponic Gardeners
Helping each other to learn and grow big nutritious plants and fish to help feed the world.
Latest Activity: Jan 9
Thank you all for joining my group, I hope to do a lot with all anyone interested. Please tell me any event suggestions you would like us to do.
Started by Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.. Last reply by Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr. Dec 11, 2014.
Started by David Schwinghamer. Last reply by Jim Troyer Dec 11, 2014.
Started by Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.. Last reply by Phil Slaton Nov 24, 2014.
Well, the pH range for nutrient availability on the soilless graph is far below my experience as well. At least as it relates to AP or bio-ponic growing ...Which is kinda why I told David not to get too hung up on those numbers shown there...and that he'd be just fine with a pH in the mid 6's...I like to keep my pH just a tad lower than the range Sylvia or Murray suggest. At any rate, that is the chart David was asking for. Not sure what you mean by "going with David on this one", since it seems we're all on the same page
David, don't get too caught up with the numbers on those charts...A mature AP system ran in the low to mid 6's should be a plants producing powerhouse. (Besides the bio-filter precludes the systems ability to function at a pH of 5 anyways)...
Damn, thats a pretty low ph, 5-5.5? I guess it would affect different plants differently cuz my peppers are producing!
Yup, that about looks the one (on the right).
@Vlad. Is the the one you are referring to?
@David That chart is generally accepted to work well, but for soil. That is the soil pH chart.
There is a different pH chart generally accepted for use in a soilless set and setting. You can probably easily fin it in 'internetland'...
Greetings Dave. Of the charts I've seen, the you found works well and is also found on page 165 of Syliva's book on aquaponics. It gives a pretty good comparison of the availability of important nutrients across pH ranges.
G'day Matt. You're almost there with your design, and you probably won't need two pumps. Also, you can keep the sump at the same level at he fish tank. Connect the fish tank and the sump with a horizontal pipe through the walls of the tanks at the height you want to keep the water in the fish tank. Pump from the sump tank and have the water return from the grow beds to the fish tank. The fish tank will then overflow in to the sump tank, maintaining a constant height. The sump tank height will fluctuate, but the fish tank height will remain the same.
Many people recommend a SLO (Solids-Lifting-Overflow) so that fish waste and debris don't collect on the bottom of the fish tank. These vary from a simple downpipe that reaches to the bottom of the fish tank (a good place to start) to complicated designs that try to capture all the waste from all corners of the tank. Check out this link for ideas.
If I was you, I'd keep it simple to start with and see how it works. Don't glue any of your connections and you can always reconfigure later.
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